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2005 Sailing Trip Journal
British, US and Spanish Virgin Islands
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Caribbean Weather for Mariners Website
Sunday, December 4
7:15 pm left a foot of snow in Bellaire and drove to Chicago Ohare Wyndham "park and fly" for the night. Arrived 1:40 am EST /12:40 am CST.
day 1 Monday, December 5
Took Wyndham's 5:00 am shuttle to get our 7:00 am flight to San Juan . Arrived to San Juan at 2:15 pm AT (12:30 CT) and took the 3:00 pm flight to Tortola Beef Island . Taxied to Sunsail in Moya Cove arriving at 4:30 pm. C'est Si Bon, our 40-foot sloop was awaiting us.
Walked over to Fat Hog Bob's for dinner on their deck facing the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Larry: pork tenderloin; Eileen: BBQ ribs. Both were excellent.
Bobby's groceries delivery 8:45 pm (next time have 3 hour after arrival time)
Russ and Lou came by for a chat. Lou is a dentist and Russ said unemployed. They got their Sunsail trip in an auction and their crew were arriving to take them around BVI on Tuesday.
day 2 Tuesday, December 6
Boat briefing at 8:00 am.
BVI briefing at 9:30 am.
Left Maya Cove at 12:30 pm and sailed leaving Beef Island to port and sailed to Camanoe Island . Sailed 8 nautical miles.
Squalls all the way were brief rains, just right winds, and sunshine. Sailed into Lee Bay arriving 3:00 pm and just ahead of another sailboat so took the port side of the bay a bit back from the front shore. The other boat took the middle front. Later two others joined us leaving us to their port. Over the evening others came in looked at the opened positions and went back out.
4-5 pm Larry snorkeled and cleaned out the v-birth floor where some water had been on the boat for a long time
Cooked spaghetti with ½ lb hamburger ½ lb ground turkey, 15 oz can tomatoes, 2 6 oz cans tomatoe paste, two packages spaghetti sauce, 1 spanish onion, 1 lb mushrooms, oregano, seasonings (1 tsp both)
Night snorkeling 7-8 pm; reef was pretty but saw no fish
Larry was backgammon champ with 2 our of 3
Asleep by 11:00 pm with dreams of Anegada for Wednesday weather permitting.
day 3 Wednesday, December 7
Up by 7:00 (Capt Lar) Listened to weather which was favorable for our sail to Anegada with visions of repeating last year's lobster dinner. Weighed anchor at 10:25 headed north around Great Camanoe and took a heading of 44 degrees
11:00 reefed both jib and mail sails; heading 30 degrees for an hour; waves 7-8 feet; wind 30's with LOTS of SPLASHES coming into the cockpit
11:30 Autopilot is awesome. Sailing a close reach, heading 30 degrees. Winds 15-25 knots; speed 3 knots; waves 5-7 feet. GPS says12.8 nm to Anegada entrance ETE 4 hours
12:30 ETA is 2:30 motor sailing; speed 2.8 to 3.5 knots; dingy airborn periodically
1:00 can see Anegada and Spartan cap flew. Attempted to retrieve it, however, it was lost
1:30 Took down sails and motored 78 degrees 4.4 km to Anegada; calmer seas; ETA 2:45
Sailed 19 nautical miles 4 1/4 hours
3:00 Took an excellent anchorage position at the west end of the mooring balls. Eileen cleaned up while Capt Lar dingied in for ice and to remove the garbage. Met Sam the ice man at 100 Palms. On way back to C'est Si Bon, Capt Lar took dingy aground and paddled out. “Looks like I know how to have stories about dingy experiences on Anegada.”
Enjoyed the sunset and relaxing to island music in our cockpit. Dingied in for dinner at 6:30 for Anegada Reef Hotel. Enjoyed chatting with folks at the beach bar and took our seat at 7:30. Lobsters were smaller this time and not quite as tasty. Rated dinner okay.
day 4 Thursday December 8
Weighed anchor at 9:00 am heading 244 degrees and sailed to Jost Van Dyke. Speed 5-5.5 knots main 100% genoa 100%. 10:00 position N18 39.2 W 64 28.6. Low battery alarm on autopilot and we didn't understand why as the battery was fully charged.
11:00 am sailing a run to Jost Van Dyke saw dolphins.
Noon position N 18 31.6 W 64 38.1 winds 15-25 knots; waves 5-6 feet. ETA 1:42
2:15 set anchor in White Bay JVD. Sailed 30 nautical miles in 5 ¼ hours.
3:00 swam to Soggy Dollar for a break. Then discovered the batter was not getting charged enough to run the autopilot. Sunsail might send someone out.
Cooked goulash with
½ lb hamburger
½ lb ground turkey
2 pkgs sloppy joe mix
2 6 oz cans tomato paste
1 15 oz can tomatoes
1 spanish onion
Seasonings
Waves and rocky anchorage tonight. Set second anchor at 10:00 with Captain Lar giving quite an entertaining show by taking the second anchor out to throw from the dingy.. Checked again at midnight and we were not moving. Capt Lar had a restless night so getting a mooring to night 2 was a priority.
day 5 Friday December 9
6:45 am Capt Lar verified we did not drag anchor via gps. Read up about charging the boat batteries. Appears our battery looses its charge faster than we prefer and must be fully charged to run the autopilot. The fully charge is called a super charge that isn't feasible when out cruising. Therefore, we decided we can survive without the autopilot and we can survive without the autopilot. For the rest of the trip, we only used the autopilot when the motor was running.
Dingied to Great Harbor and bought ice and pencils and breakfast muffins. Had our first customs experience by checking out of BVI. If we leave BVI on Saturday, there is no need to check back to recheck out. If we stay Saturday, then a re check out is needed.
Questions asked “passengers, food, garbage?” Seems the food and garbage was a big deal. Passengers didn't affect us; however, passengers is a big deal for boats going from or to US with passengers. Our papers said we must not remove the food or garbage in USVI but bring back to BVI.
Ate lunch at Foxy's. Larry fly-fish sandwich; Eileen shrimp and mango salad. Excellent!
Took a mooring for our second night yet the northern swells began at 8:00 pm and what a night! The dinner was a delicious chicken and rice with gravy and sour cream plus some of Eileen's seasonings. The swells were the largest we ever experienced and the creaking all night long of the boat led to a sleepless night. We now know what the northern swells means that we've been reading about during our past two trips.
day 6 Saturday, December 10
Captain Lar says let's go to St John, Watermelon Bay, for one night and then head to Culebra Spanish VI after hearing the weather report of ENE and E winds 17-20 knots waves 6-7 feet.
Swells were still prevailing when Captain Lar awoke at 6:30 am, but the gimbled stove made the morning coffee just fine. Woke Eileen at 7:00 am and prepared to sail to Cruz Bay where checking in to customs was our next need to do. Left mooring at 8:00 and had sails up by 8:15. Winds 12-19 knots waves 6-7 feet. By 9:20 am the battery low alarm prohibited the use of the autopilot. Arrived at 10:00 am to Cruz Bay and dingied to shore.
Sailed 14 nautical miles in two hours.
Enjoyed the window shopping on the way to customs and back. Paid our $15 mooring fee to the national park and dingied back to C'est Si Bon. Motored to Watermelon Bay arriving to a mooring at 12:30.
Captain Lar snorkeled the parameter of Watermelon Bay and found good coral at the northend and two turtles, starfish, and typical coral and fish.
Dinner was the leftover spaghetti and the evening was interesting with the other neighbors in the bay. The host boat was about a 60 foot cutter with 11 ports on its starboard side which was what we saw from our deck seats. A yawl from Montreal was on our port side and it was also about 60 foot. To our bow was an Amel perhaps 60-70 foot. The owners were in the water washing its exterior and on deck washing most of the evening. One was a swimmer who did laps across the bay at sundown.
day 7 Sunday, December 11
Left mooring at 7:45 am heading to Culebra. Winds 13-18 knots waves 6-7 feet.
At 8:45 our location was N1823569 W06446961 and speed was 4 knots. At 9:00 am motor sailing speed at 7 knots. ETA 2:45 heading 300.
Sailing (no motor):
At 10:15 location N1825225 W06457489 speed 6 knots course from 280 to 240 ETA 2:00.
At 11:40 am speed 2.5 knots 14.2 nm from Culebra ETA 5:00
At 12:45 E#TA 4.20 speed 4 knots 10.6 nm from Culebra.
At 2:25 ETA 5:15 2.2 knots began motor sailing
AT 3:35 now at r3d nun #8
At 3:45 picked up mooring; total day was motor sailed 4 hours and sailed 4 hours.
Went 38 miles and enjoyed the wind, waves, weather, and scenery.
Another interesting group of neighbors in the bay. Port side was a 40 foot sloop from Kansas City MO with a dodger that makes a pilot cab. At our bow was a solo sailor on a perhaps 25 foot sloop which had a matching dingy.
Was surprised to find the chicken sour so revised dinner plans and had left over goulash instead. Added carrots to enhance the flavor and it was delicious. Packaged up the leftovers to enjoy later in the trip.
day 8 Monday, December 12
Dingied into Dewey for provisions and to clear into customs. Piece of cake once we called and they were open after several calls of no answer.
Enjoyed shopping in the unique shops especially the Island Woman kiosk where Eileen picked up some gifts. Purchased a wooden carving of dolphins for our trip souvenior that will go nicely on our fireplace mantel in Bellaire.
At 12:30 left the mooring for Luis Pena Island . Sails up at 12:45.
Sailed 7 nautical miles and found our anchorage that had a single mooring and not a single footprint in the sandy beach. A sunken ship was just beneath our boat which was seen upon heading out to snorkel. About 80% of it was buried but an interesting view and most likely was an interesting story. Eileen guessed that one had moored at this isolated place for so long the boat gave out. Saw rays during our snorkeling and an octopus. Enjoyed the private bay all to ourselves for the evening.
The sunset was just about over the rain forest mountain on Puerto Rico . The lights of Vieques were to our port. Decided to stay here a second night. Went night snorkeling and saw jellyfish.
Dinner was a chicken and rice dish with peas and Eileen's seasoning. Excellent. Backgammon was two games with Eileen as the winner.
day 9 Tuesday, December 13
When the ferry boats begin their service from Puerto Rico to Culebra in the am, the ferry wakes began. However, it was a marvelous sleep until then. Awakening to a beautiful day, we took the dingy out to explore and picnic Luis Pena by circumventing it clockwise. Our first stop was a large private bay with two mooring balls; however, we were first to arrive. We dingied in for a hike. Just before lunch another sloop came up and took the other mooring. We decided to continue the rest of the island tour via sailboat concluding with lunch at our private bay. Upon landing our dingy to hike, we saw goat hooves in the sand similar to that at the other bay. Another little boat arrived and the 50ish aged couple went on their snorkeling adventure. The lady removed all her clothes and jumped in to snorkel. The guy snorkeled in his tshirt and suit. We headed to our boat and snorkeled the center of the bay. Saw a large ray jump out of the water. Larry decided to go in and check it out. He had a swimming race with it. Brown ray with white spots; perhaps 25 feel long with 6 foot wing span and 10 foot tail.
Dinner was the left over goulash. Very good.
day 10 Wednesday December 14
Captain Lar took dingy into Dewey for ice and dingy gas. At 9:50 am listened to weather and decided to head to the other side of Culebra and go to Culebrita for the night.
Sailed 13 nautical miles.
By noon we were just off of Flamengo Beach and saw an abandoned army tank on the shore. Heading 110 degrees; speed 2.5 knot, winds light from the east. The lightest winds we have ever experienced in the islands. Nor heard on the weather “light.” However, light here would be a good day on Lake Michigan . The wind needle moves maybe 25%.
Saw dolphin jump just ahead of the starboard side. Watched it for a while and it jumped again. Everywhere you look is a white sandy bay and no one anywhere. Culebra and its outlying islands are definitely a secret to yet be discovered.
At 1:45 picked up mooring at north end of Culebrita passing huge turtles in the bay. Captain Lar snorkeled to see a turtle with 3 foot shell.
Discovered another meal in ruin because of gone bad chicken. Obviously the chicken wasn't all that fresh when bought in Dewey. Switched plans and made another meal out of the left over chicken with added rice and corn. Need to have another night of this before being able to provision -- so we did that.
day 11 Thursday December 15
8:00 am left Culebrita to head to St. John after hearing the weather. Planned to sail a heading of 110 degrees past St. Thomas.
9:00 am 5.5 knots heading 100 degrees motor sailing. Moved to 90 degrees and motor sailed past Charlotte Amalie at 10:35 am.
The trip was 33 nautical miles.
Picked up a mooring at Salt Pond Bay St. Johns south east side at 1:30; beautiful beach with beach houses on the cliff above. Two other boats moored, a sloop about 40 foot and a cat about 45 foot. Later two others arrived one was the pretty green with unique look. Larry snorkeled the east side of the bay.
Dinner rest of leftovers and going out for dinner the remaining three nights of the trip.
day 12 Friday December 16
Sailed to Coral Bay and anchored leaving the boats on moorings to starboard. Total 8 nautical miles.
A guy wearing a University of Michigan t-shirt in a dingy nearby was having difficulty getting his dingy to keep running. So Captain Lar decided to offer to help. He initiated the conversation with “That's an ugly shirt, man.” The guy looked at Captain Lar puzzled and came to our boat so Captain Lar repeated the intro only to hear “found it in a dumpster.” As he talked his only tooth which was yellowed showed in his mouth as he slurred the words. We ended the convo (ask Captain Lar for details of the convo!) and prepared our boat for the evening.
Captain Lar dingied in to call customs, find Shipwreck Landing as a potential dinner place, and to pick up ice. He returned saying customs said “come in on Saturday.”
At 6:00 we took the dingy to dinner at Shipwreck Landing for our 7:00 reservation. Found it challenging to bank the dingy as they told us to do. Finally got it secured and up the hill we headed to dinner to discover it is Island Blues Grill, but stayed for dinner anyway. The dinner was marvelous: Eileen NY Sirloin, mashed potatoes, green beans; Captain Lar scallops with veggies.
day 13 Saturday December 17
Decided to take the Vitran Bus to Cruz Bay to check out of customs so headed for the bus station about 8:00 am. Had an interesting array of others also waiting at the bus station which ended up being nearly an hour. However, we were entertained by a pair of donkeys running back and forth for about 15 minutes until the female was bit in the neck to stop by the chasing male.
Arrived to Cruz Bay , walked to customs and discovered clearing out was done verbally. Headed to Mongoose Junction for lunch and ended up at Lumberjack Yard for a hamburger tortilla. Caught the Vitran Bus back to Coral Bay and arrived back about 2:30 pm. Captain Lar thought it a bit late in the day to head to another anchorage so we stayed put for a second night at Coral Bay.
Captain Lar dingied to find Shipwreck Landing which was the other way from the main bay. Meanwhile to new neighbors arrived and anchored nearby. A CYOA 43 named Pleiades and an American flag on Mamamau from Savage Island .
About 6:00 we dingied to dinner at Shipwreck Landing. Captain Lar had surf and tirf stuffed mushroom with crabmeat, steak, soft shell crab; Eileen had a caesor salad with shrimp. We rated our dinner okay.
day 14 Sunday December 18
Had the best sail of the trip from Coral Bay to Norman Island 's Bight. Sailed 10 nautical miles.
Dingied to Pirates Bight beach bar for lunch and were entertained by the cruiseboat passengers out for a day trip. Lunch was Captain Lar Mahi Mahi sandwich Eileen had a salad.
Captain Lar anxiously awaited Deliverence to get ice and his breakfast roll. When it came, one of the girls was one that we met in Anegada (from New Zealand ).
Wild night in the Bight with boats coming to Willy T's. We dingied ourselves to Willy Ts and had dinner/ Captain Lar, British Fish and Chips; Eileen Caribbean Chicken. After dinner we heard both the Pirates Bight music and WillyT's as we were moored in between.
day 15 Monday December 19
Sailed to Mayo Cove to return C'est Si Bon who was due at 11:00 and made it just fine. Excellent sail 12 nautical miles. Similar to yesterday's perfect, awesome, wind!
We were in a taxi on our way to Carrie's Island Comfort in Garden Bay by 1:00.
Headed out for a stroll on the beach, to visit the run distillery, and have dinner at 3:30. Used our coupons at Stanley 's beach bar and chatted with a couple from Atlanta who have been vacationing in BVI for many years. They lost their son in 2001 in a boat accident and the sailing school started a scholarship in their son's name. The owners of the sailing school at Horizon Yacht Charter joined us at 5:00.
Dinner at Myetts was outstanding. Eileen lobster and Larry steak.
Tuesday December 20
Left for airport at 5:00 am to fly back home.
Total sailing 193 nautical miles = 220 miles. Tremendous, invigorating, awesome trip!